This past weekend we went on a "little hike". We have been planning on hiking down to Havasupai for awhile now. We tried to get a big group together to go down with us but we were only able to convince one lucky couple, the Goffs. Melanie and I have been going on hikes every weekend to prepare ourselves for what lay ahead, but.... I don't think it worked. Well, maybe a little.
We stayed the night in Seligman, AZ (1 hour from the hilltop parking area) the night before the hike hoping to wake up early and make it down to Supai village before the sun came down into the canyon. But we didn't sleep very well so we started about 2 hours later than we wanted.
Ready to start the hike
The hike is 8 miles to Supai village, which is where you check in and pay for your campsites. You have 3 options on how to get you and your stuff down there.
#1 - Hike down and pack all your stuff with you
#2 - Hike down and let a mule/horse carry your stuff
#3 - Take a helicopter ride down
We wanted to try and be real backpackers so we chose option #1. The first 1.5 miles is all switchbacks since you are going from the canyon rim to the floor. Surprisingly neither of us thought it was too difficult.
Melanie on the switchbacks
The next 6.5 miles is on the canyon floor following a dry river bed. There is little to no shade once the sun is up, which is why we wanted the early start. The hiking wasn't too difficult it just became long and tedious with the sun always on you. Melanie felt bad for the mule train every time they passed us coming up the hill. They don't seem to get fed very well. There are stories that when a mule dies on the trail they just burn the body right then and there.
Part of a mule train
Did I mention it was HOT???
There were a couple deceitful signs that pointed the way to the village and said "You're almost there", but we were still 2 miles away.... Plus another 2 to the campground. We made it to the village in about 4 hours. We checked in and took a break for about 30 min. I was feeling really dehydrated so I tried to drink a lot and eat a snack. We then started towards the campground. That's when it got really hard. We were super tired, dehydrated, and sore. I had two huge blisters on my heels and my knees were shot from the downhill. Melanie's pack was hurting her but she was still pushing ahead. There was no shade at all on the trail down to the campsite so that didn't help anything.
Beaver Falls - We were too tired to even enjoy seeing this one
After what seemed like forever, we came down a hill and saw Havasupai Falls, which also signaled the entrance to the campground. We took a break and enjoyed the view before making our way down the rest of the hill into the campground. We then hiked another 1/2-3/4 of a mile looking for a campsite. We unrolled our tarp, put down the air mats and PASSED OUT.... we were done.
Havasupai Falls
Finally able to get some rest
We took it easy for awhile and then went to go get some water and look for the Goffs. Unfortunately we found that they had already setup camp, and since we all had to camp together, they had to move their tent over to where we were (Sorry Jeff and Cali). The rest of the day we just made dinner, played some games, and went to bed exhausted.
The next day we hiked down to Mooney Falls. It was less than a 1/2 mile from the campsite and proved to be an exhilarating climb. You had to go down through two caves, a couple ladders, and climb down foot and hand hold carved into the rock. There were 'safety' chains and spikes drilled into the rock that you needed to hold onto cause it was very steep. Towards the bottom of the climb the rocks were wet from the waterfall spray, and worn smooth from everyone touching them. The potential for imminent death always means that you are having a good time.
Mooney Falls
Cave Entrance
About 80 feet above the ground - just came out of the 2nd cave
We headed back up the cliff side trail just before the morning rush of people started coming down, so we were able to get out of there without having to wait in line. We went back to camp and had a snack, got some sunscreen, then headed for Havasupai Falls. The cold water from the river was the only thing that made our stiff and sore muscles feel good. We played in the falls and pools around it for a few hours and finally got to use the underwater cameras that we got for free. Thank you Old Navy black Friday giveaways!
Havasupai Falls
Playing in the River next to our camp site
The next day we woke up early and hiked to the village to book our seats for the helicopter ride out. No more backpacking for us. The Goffs rented a mule to carry their bags and decided to show us up by hiking all the way out.... but that's OK. I'm not scared to admit that if I ever go there again I'm not even going to hike in, it's going to be nothing but helicopter rides for me in the future!!


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